Zoysia Notes For Customers

Mowing:  Zoysia will tolerate a range of mowing heights.  Recommended is between 1.5 inches to 3 inches.   In order to keep zoysia short, it will require more frequent mowing and possible more water during dry periods. Whenever mowing, the rule of thumb is to not cut off more than ⅓ of the grass blade.  If you do not wish to cut zoysia every 5 - 7 days, then you will probably need to gradually raise the mowing height during the summer months.  A common mowing pattern would be as follows:

March- If you like to have and early green lawn, consider mowing once the weather begins to warm to remove some of the dormant grass and allow sunlight to reach the roots.  This will increase the likelihood of winter damage so if we are still experiencing freezing weather  proceed with caution.  

April-  Mow short to allow sun to warm roots and allow “green up”

May-Sept-  Begin mowing frequently in order to keep short   OR     begin to gradually raise mowing height to keep from scalping lawn if you don’t want to mow as often.   

Oct- On final cut of season mow fairly short.  This will end the growing for the season and also reduce the amount of dormant grass that will have to be removed the following spring.  I don’t like to cut it as low as I will the following spring.  I like to remove some of the grass on the final mow of the season and remove the rest the following spring.  

Watering:  Water the lawn as necessary from May through September.  Water during cooler months can be helpful if it is unusually dry but typically it is not necessary.  If you have irrigation, I would recommend watering less often but longer.  For example, instead of watering 4 times per week for 15 minutes per zone, water 1 time per week for 45 minutes per zone.  Watering too often can lead to fungus and weed problems.  1 deep soaking per week is usually sufficient along with normal rain.  During dry periods, you may want to water twice weekly.  If you have irrigation on seasonal flowers, then water those areas more often for shorter lengths.  For example, you can water flowers 3 times per week for 5 minutes per zone.  

For irrigation systems, water early in the morning such as 4:00 AM.  Watering in the evening can allow water to stay on the grass too long possibly leading to fungus.  

Other Notes:  Zoysia is drought tolerant but not as much as bermuda lawns.  It is important to start watering during dry, hot periods before the grass turns brown  Often, once the grass begins to turn brown, damage has already occurred and it may take a while to recover because zoysia is slow to recover from damage.   

To my knowledge, Zoysia is the best grass option for partial shade areas.  That doesn’t mean that zoysia likes shade, but it tolerates it more than other warm season grasses such as bermuda or centipede.  Some zoysia types are more shade tolerant than others.  For example, emerald zoysia is more shade tolerant than z-52 or Meyer zoysia.   If you have a lot of shade in areas, it is recommended to make that area a natural area with mulch or pine straw, because even zoysia needs some sunlight to grow.  

Zoysia can be prone to fungus.  Typically we do not include fungicide in our regular lawn treatment program because most yards do not suffer regularly from fungus.  If you lawn begins to show fungus damage, we can add a fungicide application in the all of the year to help prevent fungus in the lawn.  Typically once a fungus appears, it can be slowed down with a fungicide and the grass will recover over time, typically when the weather dries out and warms.  

Common weeds:  Nutsedge is very common in the summer.  It is very difficult to kill but can be controlled with herbicides.  Nutsedge and kyllinga both like wet areas in the lawn.  

Crabgrass:  Crabgrass is usually prevented with a pre-emergent in January or February.  If the first application of the year is after February, it is possibly that the lawn will have crabgrass.  Crabgrass is difficult to control in the summer but it dies off with cool weather and can be prevented the following year with pre-emergent.  

Burnweed:  Burnweed appears around April and it difficult to prevent with a pre emergent because it germinates in the thatch.  It is easily controlled.  It is a problem weed because it can almost appear overnight in bunches.  Please contact us if you have a burnweed breakout.  Mowing in the spring will greatly help with burnweed also.  

Basics of the Zoysia Grass Program: 

Note:  Treatments may not always be equally spaced out due to a number of circumstances including weather.  Please allow us the flexibility to provide the best care to our customers lawns.  

Application 1: Pre and Post-Emergent Application:  Jan 2- Feb 15th 

This application controls existing broadleaf weeds with a post emergent herbicide as well as a crabgrass treatment designed to target crabgrass and other warm season weeds during the germination process. Post emergent needs a couple of hours before water to be effective.  Pre emergent needs to be watered in at some point (You can wait for rain).  Just don’t bag the clippings until it is watered in.  Mulching is fine.  After it is watered in, you are welcome to bag if you wish.  

Application 2: Pre-Emergent and Broadleaf weed control:  Feb 16th – Mar 31th

This application controls broadleaf weeds which may have sprouted after application 1 as well as a pre emergent targeting summer weeds which have yet to germinate. This extends the life of the pre-emergent into later in the summer.  Post emergent needs a couple of hours before water to be effective.  Pre emergent needs to be watered in at some point (You can wait for rain).  Just don’t bag the clippings until it is watered in.  Mulching is fine.  After it is watered in, you are welcome to bag if you wish.  

Application 3: Early Summer Fertilization and Spot Treatment for Weeds:  May 16th- June 30th

This application uses a premium quality, slow release fertilizer to feed your lawn for up to 16 weeks. By utilizing slow-release fertilizer, nutrients will continue to the lawn for the length of the growing season providing good color and growth when properly watered. Technicians will spot treat your lawn for existing weeds.

Application 4: Granular grub control:  This application is typically done in June when the grubs are small.  Lawns can tolerate some grubs.  Too many grubs can lead to winter damage to the lawn.  This occurs sometimes because the grubs eat the roots and the lawn goes into winter with a weak root system.  Winter damage can still occur but it is less likely when the grubs are control.  This is typically a granular application that needs to be water in.  You can wait for it to rain or water it in yourself.  

Application 5: Late Summer Weed Control:  July 1st – Aug 31st 

This liquid application targets weeds which sprout during the hot summer months.  

Application 6: Fall Pre-Emergent Application: Sept 1st – Oct 31st

This liquid application targets cool season weeds which germinate in the fall.  Post emergent needs a couple of hours before water to be effective.  Pre emergent needs to be watered in at some point (You can wait for rain).  Just don’t bag the clippings until it is watered in.  Mulching is fine.  After it is watered in, you are welcome to bag if you wish.  

Application 7: Lime Application: Nov 1 – Dec 31

This application uses a granular lime. Grass grows best within a certain pH range. Soils in the majority or our area need lime to raise the pH of the soil to a level better suited for bermuda grass, centipede grass,  zoysia grass and st augustine grass. The lime helps the grass be able to absorb nutrients, leading to a healthier turf.